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Single Fan Hovercraft Maintenance

Hovercraft Safety and Maintenance Must Do's and Dont's

The hovercraft maintenance procedures on our web page are an introductory guide and not a complete set of maintenance instructions.  It is important to read the Maintenance section in the Operator's manual which is more detailed and is specific to each hovercraft model. 

For Maintenance and Operator's manual prices please see the Training section.

Basic Maintenance

ENGINE:
Detailed maintenance is described in the engine manufacturer's handbook but the following points need fairly frequent attention:

SPARK PLUGS:
The craft comes equipped with plugs suitable for the engine in almost all conditions.

The wire-covered engine air intake filter should be removed and washed in soapy water every 10 hours or more often in necessary. It must be sprayed with filter oil when dry before reuse;

CARBURETORS:
It is important that the choke cables should be correctly adjusted. The throttle cable must operate freely. Lubricate the cable with graphite powder when necessary. The choke plungers may stick and need lubricating with Never-Seez or a Silicone lubricant;;

IDLE SPEED:
In all conditions, except ice and snow or hilly operations, the idle can be set at 3,000 rpm, which gives sufficient lift to allow the craft to be maneuvered by hand from outside when on hard ground.

FAN:
The fan blades may become damaged by objects in the air stream. Damaged blades should then be changed. To access the fan remove the rudder assembly and the air straightener/nose cone assembly. Remove the fan from the hub. The fan is balanced by longer than standard bolts and/or washers and you should mark where these are located before disassembly. Separate the two fan halves and replace blades as necessary. Note also the position of the lock pins which set the blade pitch. Reassemble with new blades in the reverse order ensuring that the blades are set at the correct pitch. (See separate instructions for setting fan blade pitch). Reinstall the air straightener/nose cone and rudder assemblies.

THRUST FRAME:
AFTER THE FIRST WEEK OF RUNNING-IN THE FAN HUB NUTS SHOULD BE CHECKED FOR TIGHTNESS AND RETIGHTEN AS NECESSARY. THEREAFTER CHECK EVERY 50 OPERATING HOURS.

The thrust frame supports the fan and its drive components plus the engine. The bottom pulley is mounted on a short crankshaft extension, the top pulley on taper roller bearings in the spacer between the fan and the pulley. This spacer has a zerk grease fitting. The upper fan shaft bearings should be greased through the spacer zerk fitting every 10 (ten) hours or monthly. Do not over grease and wipe surplus grease off the seal.

The taper roller fan spacer bearings should be checked monthly for wear by observing whether there is axial movement when the fan is rocked from the rear. Any play in the bearings may be adjusted by removing the dust cap at the end of the fan spindle and tightening the castle nut on the spindle to allow free turning without axial movement.

Belt tension is set at the factory and is not likely to change. It can be checked with a Browning belt tension checker and should be 1/2" at 10-15 lbs. pressure in the center of the run. Do not overtighten the belt.

If it should become loose due to wear, the belt can be tensioned by slightly loosening the two 3/4" bolts on each side of the thrust frame. The engine is mounted on a bracket which slides up and down in the thrust frame to loosen or tighten the drive belt. Push down on the engine to tighten the belt, using a large screw driver as a pry bar to lever down the engine bracket at the rear, so as to achieve the correct belt tension. Before finally tightening the bolts, check that the belt tracks correctly.

Call your Dealer or the factory if you have difficulty setting belt tension or tracking.

SKIRTS:
The skirt segments are basically identical in design but the 15 segments around the rear of the craft are cut a few inches shorter.

Skirt segments can be repaired like an inner tube or replaced when ripped. To replace the skirt segment remove the upper edge trim and the skirt clips. Cut the bottom two skirt ties and install the new segment with the smooth side out using a new tie. Ties should always be replaced with new skirt ties whenever they break away. DO NOT REUSE SKIRT TIES. USE ONLY HOVERTECHNICS SUPPLIED SKIRT TIES FOR SAFETY.

HULL:
In general the hull is maintenance free, but accidental damage can be repaired with resin and fiberglass patches in the normal way using a fiberglass repair kit. Inspect skid rails and hull for damage and repair as necessary. Wash out any leaves or mud which collects inside the hull with a hose.

CABLE:
Throttle cable should be lubricated with graphite powder or silicone lubricant. Make sure the throttle works freely and that the twist grip assembly has not turned on the handle bar.

STEERING:
Check rudders. Lubricate cable with silicone lubricant. The steering cable may be replaced by disconnecting it through the front access covers. The threaded pivot is secured with a cotter pin. Check the horizontal bolt through the steering tube for tightness.

ELECTRICALS:
The battery is of maintenance free design. Remove battery leads, clean and lubricate terminals, as necessary. Electric connections are generally soldered and insulated with heat shrink tubing or made via a brass terminal block. The fuse is located near the starter solenoid. Check all electrical contacts for security.

An engine which runs below maximum r.p.m. sometimes indicates a faulty ground contact at the voltage regulators or the distributor box mounting bracket.

RIVETS:
Should a rivet get damaged and need replacement, drill out the old rivet using a #11 drill bit and use a new aluminum rivet of the correct length. Alternately, a banana rivet or wellnut may be used if the hole is enlarged.

PURCHASING PARTS:
Engine, thrust system and hull parts may be purchased through your dealer or from Hovertechnics, Inc.

USE GENUINE MANUFACTURERS' ORIGINAL REPLACEMENT PARTS FOR SAFETY.